Which ISO should I use for the cleanest image?What is “ISO” on a digital camera?Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?Should I use low-end expanded ISO?What does “expanded ISO” mean?Should I use low-end expanded ISO?For night photography with lots of unexposed areas, should I go with high iso and low exposure, or low iso and high exposure?Digital ISO vs Post-Exposure CorrectionSony a7: Is there more noise for ISO <100?Is analog gain really actually power-of-two only?Finding the best balance between ISO and exposureExpanded (low) ISO on Nikon D810Qualitywise, is there any downside to overexposing an image (within the dynamic range of the camera)?Why is same image exposed at 100 ISO noisier than 3200 ISO?

Mathematica command that allows it to read my intentions

Which ISO should I use for the cleanest image?

My ex-girlfriend uses my Apple ID to login to her iPad, do I have to give her my Apple ID password to reset it?

Knowledge-based authentication using Domain-driven Design in C#

What is the opposite of "eschatology"?

How can I prove that a state of equilibrium is unstable?

Could the museum Saturn V's be refitted for one more flight?

Can a virus destroy the BIOS of a modern computer?

Did 'Cinema Songs' exist during Hiranyakshipu's time?

Why is it a bad idea to hire a hitman to eliminate most corrupt politicians?

Am I breaking OOP practice with this architecture?

Is it possible to map the firing of neurons in the human brain so as to stimulate artificial memories in someone else?

How to install cross-compiler on Ubuntu 18.04?

Use of noexpand in the implementation of TextOrMath for eTeX

What is a Samsaran Word™?

Can compressed videos be decoded back to their uncompresed original format?

How do conventional missiles fly?

Processor speed limited at 0.4 Ghz

Does Dispel Magic work on Tiny Hut?

Avoiding the "not like other girls" trope?

Implication of namely

GFCI outlets - can they be repaired? Are they really needed at the end of a circuit?

Why are UK visa biometrics appointments suspended at USCIS Application Support Centers?

How do I exit BASH while loop using modulus operator?



Which ISO should I use for the cleanest image?


What is “ISO” on a digital camera?Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?Should I use low-end expanded ISO?What does “expanded ISO” mean?Should I use low-end expanded ISO?For night photography with lots of unexposed areas, should I go with high iso and low exposure, or low iso and high exposure?Digital ISO vs Post-Exposure CorrectionSony a7: Is there more noise for ISO <100?Is analog gain really actually power-of-two only?Finding the best balance between ISO and exposureExpanded (low) ISO on Nikon D810Qualitywise, is there any downside to overexposing an image (within the dynamic range of the camera)?Why is same image exposed at 100 ISO noisier than 3200 ISO?













1















Assume the case of a Canon 6D Mark II. Its lowest ISO is regulary 100. If expanded, I can set it to L, which is ISO 50.



Until now, I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image, so whenever possible I've been using ISO 50. Now I came across this chart from photonstophotos.net:



chart



And that leaves me completely confused. According to this chart, I have a lower noise at ISO 100. ISO 50 seems to have a higher noise than ISO 300 too. Is that anywhere near correct? As long as I would not be clipping highlights, couldn't I just use ISO 160, 300 or 600 instead of lets say 50, 200 and 400 (depending on my needed exposure) and later drop down the exposure in post to get a cleaner image?



I've seen this question about ISO 50 but the two top answers are kinda contradicting:




Since your camera offers this 'expanded ISO" that provides for 80 ISO, you can assume that this ISO is sub-optimal, and could exhibit more noise or a loss of dynamic range than the 'native' ISO. [...] Some suggest Canon cameras are 'native' for ISO 100, and full stop ISO are best (100,200,400 etc.).




Vs.:




You can use it and it gives excellent dynamic-range and very low image noise but really barely any different from the ISO 100 setting.




The chart above would suggest the first answer is right, but that definitely doesn't hold true for the latter part of the quote, as ISO 160, 300 and 600 seem to be the best choices.



Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?










share|improve this question

















  • 1





    The differences in that chart fall under the "... but really barely any different from the ISO 100 settings."

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago











  • @MichaelC Yeah but to me, especially because of the "excellent DR", it sounds like he is trying to say that 50 is better than 100, while other answers and that chart suggest it is worse, even though just by a little.

    – confetti
    4 hours ago







  • 4





    Possible duplicate of Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    I agree with the suggested dupe (specifically, the accepted answer there, as @MichaelC points out). But addressing the statement, "I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image...", see the following questions: What is “ISO” on a digital camera?, Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?, and Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?

    – scottbb
    3 hours ago















1















Assume the case of a Canon 6D Mark II. Its lowest ISO is regulary 100. If expanded, I can set it to L, which is ISO 50.



Until now, I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image, so whenever possible I've been using ISO 50. Now I came across this chart from photonstophotos.net:



chart



And that leaves me completely confused. According to this chart, I have a lower noise at ISO 100. ISO 50 seems to have a higher noise than ISO 300 too. Is that anywhere near correct? As long as I would not be clipping highlights, couldn't I just use ISO 160, 300 or 600 instead of lets say 50, 200 and 400 (depending on my needed exposure) and later drop down the exposure in post to get a cleaner image?



I've seen this question about ISO 50 but the two top answers are kinda contradicting:




Since your camera offers this 'expanded ISO" that provides for 80 ISO, you can assume that this ISO is sub-optimal, and could exhibit more noise or a loss of dynamic range than the 'native' ISO. [...] Some suggest Canon cameras are 'native' for ISO 100, and full stop ISO are best (100,200,400 etc.).




Vs.:




You can use it and it gives excellent dynamic-range and very low image noise but really barely any different from the ISO 100 setting.




The chart above would suggest the first answer is right, but that definitely doesn't hold true for the latter part of the quote, as ISO 160, 300 and 600 seem to be the best choices.



Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?










share|improve this question

















  • 1





    The differences in that chart fall under the "... but really barely any different from the ISO 100 settings."

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago











  • @MichaelC Yeah but to me, especially because of the "excellent DR", it sounds like he is trying to say that 50 is better than 100, while other answers and that chart suggest it is worse, even though just by a little.

    – confetti
    4 hours ago







  • 4





    Possible duplicate of Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    I agree with the suggested dupe (specifically, the accepted answer there, as @MichaelC points out). But addressing the statement, "I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image...", see the following questions: What is “ISO” on a digital camera?, Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?, and Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?

    – scottbb
    3 hours ago













1












1








1








Assume the case of a Canon 6D Mark II. Its lowest ISO is regulary 100. If expanded, I can set it to L, which is ISO 50.



Until now, I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image, so whenever possible I've been using ISO 50. Now I came across this chart from photonstophotos.net:



chart



And that leaves me completely confused. According to this chart, I have a lower noise at ISO 100. ISO 50 seems to have a higher noise than ISO 300 too. Is that anywhere near correct? As long as I would not be clipping highlights, couldn't I just use ISO 160, 300 or 600 instead of lets say 50, 200 and 400 (depending on my needed exposure) and later drop down the exposure in post to get a cleaner image?



I've seen this question about ISO 50 but the two top answers are kinda contradicting:




Since your camera offers this 'expanded ISO" that provides for 80 ISO, you can assume that this ISO is sub-optimal, and could exhibit more noise or a loss of dynamic range than the 'native' ISO. [...] Some suggest Canon cameras are 'native' for ISO 100, and full stop ISO are best (100,200,400 etc.).




Vs.:




You can use it and it gives excellent dynamic-range and very low image noise but really barely any different from the ISO 100 setting.




The chart above would suggest the first answer is right, but that definitely doesn't hold true for the latter part of the quote, as ISO 160, 300 and 600 seem to be the best choices.



Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?










share|improve this question














Assume the case of a Canon 6D Mark II. Its lowest ISO is regulary 100. If expanded, I can set it to L, which is ISO 50.



Until now, I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image, so whenever possible I've been using ISO 50. Now I came across this chart from photonstophotos.net:



chart



And that leaves me completely confused. According to this chart, I have a lower noise at ISO 100. ISO 50 seems to have a higher noise than ISO 300 too. Is that anywhere near correct? As long as I would not be clipping highlights, couldn't I just use ISO 160, 300 or 600 instead of lets say 50, 200 and 400 (depending on my needed exposure) and later drop down the exposure in post to get a cleaner image?



I've seen this question about ISO 50 but the two top answers are kinda contradicting:




Since your camera offers this 'expanded ISO" that provides for 80 ISO, you can assume that this ISO is sub-optimal, and could exhibit more noise or a loss of dynamic range than the 'native' ISO. [...] Some suggest Canon cameras are 'native' for ISO 100, and full stop ISO are best (100,200,400 etc.).




Vs.:




You can use it and it gives excellent dynamic-range and very low image noise but really barely any different from the ISO 100 setting.




The chart above would suggest the first answer is right, but that definitely doesn't hold true for the latter part of the quote, as ISO 160, 300 and 600 seem to be the best choices.



Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?







exposure iso noise






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked 4 hours ago









confetticonfetti

403113




403113







  • 1





    The differences in that chart fall under the "... but really barely any different from the ISO 100 settings."

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago











  • @MichaelC Yeah but to me, especially because of the "excellent DR", it sounds like he is trying to say that 50 is better than 100, while other answers and that chart suggest it is worse, even though just by a little.

    – confetti
    4 hours ago







  • 4





    Possible duplicate of Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    I agree with the suggested dupe (specifically, the accepted answer there, as @MichaelC points out). But addressing the statement, "I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image...", see the following questions: What is “ISO” on a digital camera?, Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?, and Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?

    – scottbb
    3 hours ago












  • 1





    The differences in that chart fall under the "... but really barely any different from the ISO 100 settings."

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago











  • @MichaelC Yeah but to me, especially because of the "excellent DR", it sounds like he is trying to say that 50 is better than 100, while other answers and that chart suggest it is worse, even though just by a little.

    – confetti
    4 hours ago







  • 4





    Possible duplicate of Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

    – Michael C
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    I agree with the suggested dupe (specifically, the accepted answer there, as @MichaelC points out). But addressing the statement, "I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image...", see the following questions: What is “ISO” on a digital camera?, Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?, and Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?

    – scottbb
    3 hours ago







1




1





The differences in that chart fall under the "... but really barely any different from the ISO 100 settings."

– Michael C
4 hours ago





The differences in that chart fall under the "... but really barely any different from the ISO 100 settings."

– Michael C
4 hours ago













@MichaelC Yeah but to me, especially because of the "excellent DR", it sounds like he is trying to say that 50 is better than 100, while other answers and that chart suggest it is worse, even though just by a little.

– confetti
4 hours ago






@MichaelC Yeah but to me, especially because of the "excellent DR", it sounds like he is trying to say that 50 is better than 100, while other answers and that chart suggest it is worse, even though just by a little.

– confetti
4 hours ago





4




4





Possible duplicate of Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

– Michael C
4 hours ago





Possible duplicate of Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?

– Michael C
4 hours ago




1




1





I agree with the suggested dupe (specifically, the accepted answer there, as @MichaelC points out). But addressing the statement, "I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image...", see the following questions: What is “ISO” on a digital camera?, Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?, and Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?

– scottbb
3 hours ago





I agree with the suggested dupe (specifically, the accepted answer there, as @MichaelC points out). But addressing the statement, "I was always under the impression the lower the ISO the cleaner the image...", see the following questions: What is “ISO” on a digital camera?, Is it better to shoot with a higher ISO, or use lower ISO and raise the exposure in post-processing?, and Should higher ISOs really be preferred (all other things being equal)?

– scottbb
3 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















3














Canon has been doing this with the +1/3 and -1/3 stop ISO settings since at least the EOS 1Ds Mark III back in 2007.



There's an extended answer regarding how all of this works out in the accepted answer and the comments following it at:



Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?



Rather than copy/paste that entire answer here, I'm voting to close this question as a duplicate. Although the questions aren't exactly the same, the answer to both is.



The only additional information that might be relevant is about ISO 50. It is a "virtual" ISO that uses the sensor amplification set at ISO 100 and then "pulls" the exposure one full stop when the raw file is converted, just like ISO 160, ISO 320, ISO 640, etc. "pull" exposure by one-third (1/3) stop from the sensor amplified for ISO 200, ISO 400, ISO 800, etc. Even if you use a third party raw conversion application, the EXIF info attached to the raw file will let the app know to apply the exposure adjustments.



With ISO 50, the effect of the "pull" in development is to reduce the brightness of the entire picture, including the shadows where noise tends to be most noticeable, by one full stop. It also reduces the highlights by one full stop. So any areas that are right at the clipping point in the raw file (which is probably a stop or two brighter than what could fit into a jpeg with typical gamma and contrast curves applied) are also reduced by one full stop.






share|improve this answer

























  • I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

    – confetti
    4 hours ago


















0














While most of your questions are already answered by Michael or the question he linked to here are my two cents about your following question:




Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?




The chart shows the Read Noise in dependence of ISO. This was measured by taking a completely black picture. So as long as you only shoot with your lens cap attached, the answer is yes ;-)



Otherwise these measurements are not really relevant for practical purposes. There you use the Visual Noise. These are expressed in values from 0 to "unlimited". Values up to 0.8 mean near noiseless results, up to 2 for "low" noise, up to 3 for "medium" and everything above that for "clearly visible" noise.



I googled for tests with Visual Noise for your camera and found one at PDN. It's quite a read (with links explaining the methodology) but I think the following bullet point sums it up nicely:




The amount of observable noise is consistent in each viewing condition, at ISOs from ISO100 through ISO3200. At higher ISOs, the amount of noise increases.




So don't spent too much time considering if to use ISO 100 or ISO 160. The result will look the same most of the time anyway.






share|improve this answer























    Your Answer








    StackExchange.ready(function()
    var channelOptions =
    tags: "".split(" "),
    id: "61"
    ;
    initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

    StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
    // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
    if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
    StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
    createEditor();
    );

    else
    createEditor();

    );

    function createEditor()
    StackExchange.prepareEditor(
    heartbeatType: 'answer',
    autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
    convertImagesToLinks: false,
    noModals: true,
    showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
    reputationToPostImages: null,
    bindNavPrevention: true,
    postfix: "",
    imageUploader:
    brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
    contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
    allowUrls: true
    ,
    noCode: true, onDemand: true,
    discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
    ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
    );



    );













    draft saved

    draft discarded


















    StackExchange.ready(
    function ()
    StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f106345%2fwhich-iso-should-i-use-for-the-cleanest-image%23new-answer', 'question_page');

    );

    Post as a guest















    Required, but never shown

























    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3














    Canon has been doing this with the +1/3 and -1/3 stop ISO settings since at least the EOS 1Ds Mark III back in 2007.



    There's an extended answer regarding how all of this works out in the accepted answer and the comments following it at:



    Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?



    Rather than copy/paste that entire answer here, I'm voting to close this question as a duplicate. Although the questions aren't exactly the same, the answer to both is.



    The only additional information that might be relevant is about ISO 50. It is a "virtual" ISO that uses the sensor amplification set at ISO 100 and then "pulls" the exposure one full stop when the raw file is converted, just like ISO 160, ISO 320, ISO 640, etc. "pull" exposure by one-third (1/3) stop from the sensor amplified for ISO 200, ISO 400, ISO 800, etc. Even if you use a third party raw conversion application, the EXIF info attached to the raw file will let the app know to apply the exposure adjustments.



    With ISO 50, the effect of the "pull" in development is to reduce the brightness of the entire picture, including the shadows where noise tends to be most noticeable, by one full stop. It also reduces the highlights by one full stop. So any areas that are right at the clipping point in the raw file (which is probably a stop or two brighter than what could fit into a jpeg with typical gamma and contrast curves applied) are also reduced by one full stop.






    share|improve this answer

























    • I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

      – confetti
      4 hours ago















    3














    Canon has been doing this with the +1/3 and -1/3 stop ISO settings since at least the EOS 1Ds Mark III back in 2007.



    There's an extended answer regarding how all of this works out in the accepted answer and the comments following it at:



    Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?



    Rather than copy/paste that entire answer here, I'm voting to close this question as a duplicate. Although the questions aren't exactly the same, the answer to both is.



    The only additional information that might be relevant is about ISO 50. It is a "virtual" ISO that uses the sensor amplification set at ISO 100 and then "pulls" the exposure one full stop when the raw file is converted, just like ISO 160, ISO 320, ISO 640, etc. "pull" exposure by one-third (1/3) stop from the sensor amplified for ISO 200, ISO 400, ISO 800, etc. Even if you use a third party raw conversion application, the EXIF info attached to the raw file will let the app know to apply the exposure adjustments.



    With ISO 50, the effect of the "pull" in development is to reduce the brightness of the entire picture, including the shadows where noise tends to be most noticeable, by one full stop. It also reduces the highlights by one full stop. So any areas that are right at the clipping point in the raw file (which is probably a stop or two brighter than what could fit into a jpeg with typical gamma and contrast curves applied) are also reduced by one full stop.






    share|improve this answer

























    • I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

      – confetti
      4 hours ago













    3












    3








    3







    Canon has been doing this with the +1/3 and -1/3 stop ISO settings since at least the EOS 1Ds Mark III back in 2007.



    There's an extended answer regarding how all of this works out in the accepted answer and the comments following it at:



    Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?



    Rather than copy/paste that entire answer here, I'm voting to close this question as a duplicate. Although the questions aren't exactly the same, the answer to both is.



    The only additional information that might be relevant is about ISO 50. It is a "virtual" ISO that uses the sensor amplification set at ISO 100 and then "pulls" the exposure one full stop when the raw file is converted, just like ISO 160, ISO 320, ISO 640, etc. "pull" exposure by one-third (1/3) stop from the sensor amplified for ISO 200, ISO 400, ISO 800, etc. Even if you use a third party raw conversion application, the EXIF info attached to the raw file will let the app know to apply the exposure adjustments.



    With ISO 50, the effect of the "pull" in development is to reduce the brightness of the entire picture, including the shadows where noise tends to be most noticeable, by one full stop. It also reduces the highlights by one full stop. So any areas that are right at the clipping point in the raw file (which is probably a stop or two brighter than what could fit into a jpeg with typical gamma and contrast curves applied) are also reduced by one full stop.






    share|improve this answer















    Canon has been doing this with the +1/3 and -1/3 stop ISO settings since at least the EOS 1Ds Mark III back in 2007.



    There's an extended answer regarding how all of this works out in the accepted answer and the comments following it at:



    Is it really better to shoot at full-stop ISOs?



    Rather than copy/paste that entire answer here, I'm voting to close this question as a duplicate. Although the questions aren't exactly the same, the answer to both is.



    The only additional information that might be relevant is about ISO 50. It is a "virtual" ISO that uses the sensor amplification set at ISO 100 and then "pulls" the exposure one full stop when the raw file is converted, just like ISO 160, ISO 320, ISO 640, etc. "pull" exposure by one-third (1/3) stop from the sensor amplified for ISO 200, ISO 400, ISO 800, etc. Even if you use a third party raw conversion application, the EXIF info attached to the raw file will let the app know to apply the exposure adjustments.



    With ISO 50, the effect of the "pull" in development is to reduce the brightness of the entire picture, including the shadows where noise tends to be most noticeable, by one full stop. It also reduces the highlights by one full stop. So any areas that are right at the clipping point in the raw file (which is probably a stop or two brighter than what could fit into a jpeg with typical gamma and contrast curves applied) are also reduced by one full stop.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited 4 hours ago

























    answered 4 hours ago









    Michael CMichael C

    134k7152380




    134k7152380












    • I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

      – confetti
      4 hours ago

















    • I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

      – confetti
      4 hours ago
















    I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

    – confetti
    4 hours ago





    I'm sorry, I haven't seen that other question. It does explain most of the questions I had though, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything: That means I can basically take a shot at ISO 640 (which will be overexposed by 2 2/3 stops but no clipped highlights), bring the exposure down later in post by 2 2/3 stops and have the same image but cleaner and with less noise than if I would've taken the same shot at ISO 100 to begin with?

    – confetti
    4 hours ago













    0














    While most of your questions are already answered by Michael or the question he linked to here are my two cents about your following question:




    Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?




    The chart shows the Read Noise in dependence of ISO. This was measured by taking a completely black picture. So as long as you only shoot with your lens cap attached, the answer is yes ;-)



    Otherwise these measurements are not really relevant for practical purposes. There you use the Visual Noise. These are expressed in values from 0 to "unlimited". Values up to 0.8 mean near noiseless results, up to 2 for "low" noise, up to 3 for "medium" and everything above that for "clearly visible" noise.



    I googled for tests with Visual Noise for your camera and found one at PDN. It's quite a read (with links explaining the methodology) but I think the following bullet point sums it up nicely:




    The amount of observable noise is consistent in each viewing condition, at ISOs from ISO100 through ISO3200. At higher ISOs, the amount of noise increases.




    So don't spent too much time considering if to use ISO 100 or ISO 160. The result will look the same most of the time anyway.






    share|improve this answer



























      0














      While most of your questions are already answered by Michael or the question he linked to here are my two cents about your following question:




      Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?




      The chart shows the Read Noise in dependence of ISO. This was measured by taking a completely black picture. So as long as you only shoot with your lens cap attached, the answer is yes ;-)



      Otherwise these measurements are not really relevant for practical purposes. There you use the Visual Noise. These are expressed in values from 0 to "unlimited". Values up to 0.8 mean near noiseless results, up to 2 for "low" noise, up to 3 for "medium" and everything above that for "clearly visible" noise.



      I googled for tests with Visual Noise for your camera and found one at PDN. It's quite a read (with links explaining the methodology) but I think the following bullet point sums it up nicely:




      The amount of observable noise is consistent in each viewing condition, at ISOs from ISO100 through ISO3200. At higher ISOs, the amount of noise increases.




      So don't spent too much time considering if to use ISO 100 or ISO 160. The result will look the same most of the time anyway.






      share|improve this answer

























        0












        0








        0







        While most of your questions are already answered by Michael or the question he linked to here are my two cents about your following question:




        Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?




        The chart shows the Read Noise in dependence of ISO. This was measured by taking a completely black picture. So as long as you only shoot with your lens cap attached, the answer is yes ;-)



        Otherwise these measurements are not really relevant for practical purposes. There you use the Visual Noise. These are expressed in values from 0 to "unlimited". Values up to 0.8 mean near noiseless results, up to 2 for "low" noise, up to 3 for "medium" and everything above that for "clearly visible" noise.



        I googled for tests with Visual Noise for your camera and found one at PDN. It's quite a read (with links explaining the methodology) but I think the following bullet point sums it up nicely:




        The amount of observable noise is consistent in each viewing condition, at ISOs from ISO100 through ISO3200. At higher ISOs, the amount of noise increases.




        So don't spent too much time considering if to use ISO 100 or ISO 160. The result will look the same most of the time anyway.






        share|improve this answer













        While most of your questions are already answered by Michael or the question he linked to here are my two cents about your following question:




        Can someone tell me if I interpret the chart correctly, and if ISO 160, later darkened in post, will really give me cleaner, less noisy images in the end than using ISO 50 (assuming that would be the perfect exposure) in the camera right away?




        The chart shows the Read Noise in dependence of ISO. This was measured by taking a completely black picture. So as long as you only shoot with your lens cap attached, the answer is yes ;-)



        Otherwise these measurements are not really relevant for practical purposes. There you use the Visual Noise. These are expressed in values from 0 to "unlimited". Values up to 0.8 mean near noiseless results, up to 2 for "low" noise, up to 3 for "medium" and everything above that for "clearly visible" noise.



        I googled for tests with Visual Noise for your camera and found one at PDN. It's quite a read (with links explaining the methodology) but I think the following bullet point sums it up nicely:




        The amount of observable noise is consistent in each viewing condition, at ISOs from ISO100 through ISO3200. At higher ISOs, the amount of noise increases.




        So don't spent too much time considering if to use ISO 100 or ISO 160. The result will look the same most of the time anyway.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 1 hour ago









        LotharLothar

        2493




        2493



























            draft saved

            draft discarded
















































            Thanks for contributing an answer to Photography Stack Exchange!


            • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

            But avoid


            • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

            • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.

            To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




            draft saved


            draft discarded














            StackExchange.ready(
            function ()
            StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f106345%2fwhich-iso-should-i-use-for-the-cleanest-image%23new-answer', 'question_page');

            );

            Post as a guest















            Required, but never shown





















































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown

































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown







            Popular posts from this blog

            Oświęcim Innehåll Historia | Källor | Externa länkar | Navigeringsmeny50°2′18″N 19°13′17″Ö / 50.03833°N 19.22139°Ö / 50.03833; 19.2213950°2′18″N 19°13′17″Ö / 50.03833°N 19.22139°Ö / 50.03833; 19.221393089658Nordisk familjebok, AuschwitzInsidan tro och existensJewish Community i OświęcimAuschwitz Jewish Center: MuseumAuschwitz Jewish Center

            Valle di Casies Indice Geografia fisica | Origini del nome | Storia | Società | Amministrazione | Sport | Note | Bibliografia | Voci correlate | Altri progetti | Collegamenti esterni | Menu di navigazione46°46′N 12°11′E / 46.766667°N 12.183333°E46.766667; 12.183333 (Valle di Casies)46°46′N 12°11′E / 46.766667°N 12.183333°E46.766667; 12.183333 (Valle di Casies)Sito istituzionaleAstat Censimento della popolazione 2011 - Determinazione della consistenza dei tre gruppi linguistici della Provincia Autonoma di Bolzano-Alto Adige - giugno 2012Numeri e fattiValle di CasiesDato IstatTabella dei gradi/giorno dei Comuni italiani raggruppati per Regione e Provincia26 agosto 1993, n. 412Heraldry of the World: GsiesStatistiche I.StatValCasies.comWikimedia CommonsWikimedia CommonsValle di CasiesSito ufficialeValle di CasiesMM14870458910042978-6

            Typsetting diagram chases (with TikZ?) Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)How to define the default vertical distance between nodes?Draw edge on arcNumerical conditional within tikz keys?TikZ: Drawing an arc from an intersection to an intersectionDrawing rectilinear curves in Tikz, aka an Etch-a-Sketch drawingLine up nested tikz enviroments or how to get rid of themHow to place nodes in an absolute coordinate system in tikzCommutative diagram with curve connecting between nodesTikz with standalone: pinning tikz coordinates to page cmDrawing a Decision Diagram with Tikz and layout manager