What causes the vertical darker bands in my photo? Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern) Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat is the correct way to describe better camera, aperture f/2.2 or f2.2?What does “12MP + 12MP Camera” mean in the specs of a mobile phone?
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What causes the vertical darker bands in my photo?
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)
Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat is the correct way to describe better camera, aperture f/2.2 or f2.2?What does “12MP + 12MP Camera” mean in the specs of a mobile phone?
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I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
New contributor
|
show 3 more comments
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
New contributor
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
10 hours ago
6
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
9 hours ago
15
They are not black.
– osullic
7 hours ago
I may be missing something, but are those dark bands not simply shadows due to the paper surface being not flat?
– gerrit
5 hours ago
1
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
5 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
New contributor
I was taking a picture of my class note with my mobile phone and after taking the snap, the photo appears to have some vertical darker bands.
The bands were moving horizontally from left to right when the camera lens were scanning the picture. When the shutter was clicked, the dark bands were captured. If observed carefully, there appears to be two dark bands.
What could have caused the dark bands?
mobile
mobile
New contributor
New contributor
edited 1 hour ago
Andrew T.
1195
1195
New contributor
asked 10 hours ago
Nilay GhoshNilay Ghosh
1265
1265
New contributor
New contributor
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
10 hours ago
6
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
9 hours ago
15
They are not black.
– osullic
7 hours ago
I may be missing something, but are those dark bands not simply shadows due to the paper surface being not flat?
– gerrit
5 hours ago
1
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
5 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
10 hours ago
6
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
9 hours ago
15
They are not black.
– osullic
7 hours ago
I may be missing something, but are those dark bands not simply shadows due to the paper surface being not flat?
– gerrit
5 hours ago
1
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
5 hours ago
3
3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
10 hours ago
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
10 hours ago
6
6
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
9 hours ago
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
9 hours ago
15
15
They are not black.
– osullic
7 hours ago
They are not black.
– osullic
7 hours ago
I may be missing something, but are those dark bands not simply shadows due to the paper surface being not flat?
– gerrit
5 hours ago
I may be missing something, but are those dark bands not simply shadows due to the paper surface being not flat?
– gerrit
5 hours ago
1
1
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
5 hours ago
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
5 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
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active
oldest
votes
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
add a comment |
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
add a comment |
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
The darker vertical bands? I would ascribe them to a synchronization between sensor capture and a slightly flickering lighting (one aspect of the "rolling shutter" problem). Is the exposure time of the picture roughly three periods(*) of your local current frequency (1/15-1/20 of a second)?
(*) At least three bands in the picture, beside the two obvious ones, there is one along the left border.
edited 9 hours ago
answered 9 hours ago
xenoidxenoid
4,6171622
4,6171622
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
add a comment |
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
Another one starts at the right border. -> I think it's a rolling shutter with flickering light problem, too.
– Horitsu
6 hours ago
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
add a comment |
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
To expand on xenoids answer.
Most phone cameras use what is known as a "rolling shutter", the exposure starts and ends at slightly different times for different parts of the image. This makes the sensor cheaper because the end of the exposure can be defined by the readout process rather than needing extra electronics to capture the image at the end of the exposure.
This causes time-variations in the lighting level to be translated to spacial variations in the resulting image.
So if your light source varies in intensity at a speed a few times faster than the sensor readout time, you will get bars like this. How dark the bars are will depend on the exposure time the camera is using. Pointing your camera directly at the problem light will likely result in a shorter exposure time and hence stronger bars.
Many (but not all) flourescent and LED lights flicker at twice mains frequency, which tends to be in the same ballpark as sensor readout times.
answered 4 hours ago
Peter GreenPeter Green
58437
58437
add a comment |
add a comment |
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nilay Ghosh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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3
I am sorry, but at 300% magnification, I cannot see any black lines. Could it be that the transcoding eliminated it? Where, roughly, should I look for the lines?
– flolilo
10 hours ago
6
@flolilo - I see them as vaguely reddish, surrounded by vaguely bluish, at about ⅓ & ⅔ vertically. They're actually easier to spot if you shrink the image rather than expand it.
– Tetsujin
9 hours ago
15
They are not black.
– osullic
7 hours ago
I may be missing something, but are those dark bands not simply shadows due to the paper surface being not flat?
– gerrit
5 hours ago
1
I have seen this happen most often with florescent lights, but some LEDs do it too. Most incandescents don't seem to do it noticeably. If you point the phone's camera up at the light, you should be able to see the flickers clearly on your screen.
– Moshe Katz
5 hours ago